Catching Surfing Real Waves is the the most dominant aspect of surfing. Advanced surfers spend their lives improving their ability to catch waves. Waves are the one changing dynamic in surfing.
Surfline, the “go-to” guide for what is happening with waves at beaches around the world often says such and such a spot is lighting up. It means the big waves have arrived which invites all the great surfers. Most surfers are not looking for the biggest waves on the planet. They want to learn how to surf the waves at their home beaches.
The Beginner Real Waves
The beginner starts with 2′ to 3′ real waves and rides down the face. Even this is an adventure because the wave is faster and the tail of his board is tilted up so he is looking down at what could be a face plant. As he progresses, he will face plant many times. Soon he learns how to fall and starts anticipating when he is going to fall.
Learning the characteristics of the wave you like or can ride is important. There are sand bar beaches which produce peaky fast closing waves and reefs which tend to produce waves that roll to the right or left. The reefs gift the long rides. There are points like Malibu, Jeffries Bay in Africa and Coolingata in Australia that have very long pockets where surfers can do 20 to 30 maneuvers.
The Oceanside, CA break at the Pier is popular because it is a peaky wave and is good for short boards. It allows snaps off the lip for two or three maneuvers most of the time. On a great day, surfers get a long ride. For beginners, the wave is challenging. It is easy to face plant if you ride straight down.
Catching the Peaky Waves
When waves are peaky, surfer learn to catch the wave and then push the nose of the board toward the pocket. This way, they get away from the falling lip quickly and don’t pearl as often. In very big waves, there is no escaping the ride down the face, but then surfers carve into the pocket to catch the barrel and avoid the falling lip.
A great way to ease into bigger waves on sand bar beaches is catch the corners. As the wave rolls, it loses steepness. The surfer paddles at a 45 degree angle toward the beach and lets the wave roll under the board. He continues at that 45 degree angle until the wave dies.
Letting the wave roll under the board is the secret for all real waves. As they get bigger and steeper, more hard paddling is necessary to get the board down the face. As waves get bigger they are moving faster. As the real wave approaches, a surfer will start to paddle for momentum and as the wave rolls under the board he has to paddle hard to get into the wave.
On many reefs, the wave starts as a small hill and long boarders love these waves. They can catch them early and be riding as it arcs. Short boarders have to wait for the arc. On these beaches, the long boarders can dominate all the waves. This is one reason short boarders go to the more peaky beaches where they have an even chance to catch the waves.
Surfers observe the waves before they go in and decide where they want to surf and how they are going to catch the waves. They look at the line up and watch what other surfers are doing. The surfer has a plan as he paddles out. In the line up, most surfers give other surfers a chance to catch waves. Paddling for a wave early signals to other surfers you want it. You just can’t have every wave. Have fun.
For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page
For getting in better shape for surfing see GetFittoSurf.com
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