Surfers Learn to Ride Real Waves after they have perfected their techniques on foam waves. Beginners begin on soft top boards, but most of them transition easily to riding real waves. The necessary techniques can be practiced on soft tops because timing is the essential for most beginners.
The beginner surfer learns to catch foam waves and ride to the beach. He learns the timing. I tell students surfing is timing and rhythm. Once they get the timing, they get into flow and the techniques occur without thinking. The process is to first understand paddling. Paddling should be short fast strokes dipping the hand in the water to the elbow and pulling with the forearms. Pressure must be equal with right and left arms. Only about three good strokes are necessary to catch a foam wave after a few easy strokes as the wave approaches.
Timing on the Foam Wave
The surfer lets the foam wave get about 20 feet away and rolls over on the board and paddles easy for 3 strokes. He looks to the side and when he sees the wave about to hit the tail, he paddles hard for 3 strokes as he feels the board take off in the wave. This is the perfect time to place hands on the board in the man’s push up position next to the rib cage. Then he smoothly executes a pop up.
On a real wave the technique for catch real waves is similar. The timing is different. The surfer sees the real wave form. From his either sitting or paddling position he decides whether to paddle out, parallel, or in from where he is to get the wave to roll under the board. The wave rolls under the board and the surfer paddles hard to catch the wave. Then he places his hands on the board and executes a smooth pop up.
The First Real Wave Maneuver
The first maneuver on a real wave is the bottom turn. He looks in the direction he wants to travel with his eyes. His head and upper torso turn in the direction of the carve. The torque runs down to his feet. A regular footed surfer turning right (face side) will put pressure on his toes. If he turns left (back side) he will put pressure on his heels.
Once in the pocket, he accelerates by running the nose of the board up and down the face two or three times. This gets him in front of the falling lip and and in position to do a maneuver or trick. He can do a cut back, or run up the face with another bottom turn. A cut back is the reverse bottom turn as the surfer turns to face down the wave and reverses direction. He does this to get back to the power of the wave. At that time he reverses again to get back into the pocket.
At the beginning, a surfer will just catch the wave and bottom turn into the pocket and drive the wave to the end or turn toward the beach if the wave collapses into foam. He may also learn to just point the board toward the pocket after he catches the wave and then pop up. This eliminates the bottom turn and gets into the pocket faster if the waves are closing out quickly.
Read Other Posts:
Beginner Surfers Learn on Soft Tops
5 Steps to Improve Surfing Performance
3 Ways to Catch Real Surfing Waves
Training to Ride the Surfing Short Board
Short Board Surfing Techniques
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